INTO SMITHEREENS is a collection of eight sculptural leather garments, body-pieces and accessories that focus on developing the decorative technique of Cavandoli Macramé into a constructivist method. The result manifests itself in a series of daring shapes and hybrid solutions in between pattern-cutting and three-dimensional knotting.
Furthermore the collection conceptualizes the connection in between garments, accessory and body and suggests an innovative way to the use of leather. All garments are carefully crafted, each leather band cut separately and every knot hand-tied. / Photography: Crystin Moritz / MakeUp&Hair: Daniela Koller / Model: Mia Omyalieva (Premiere)
Shapes and silhouettes are formed by the interplay of movement in between body and dress, creating architectural shapes and almost topographical heights& depths. The incorporated, spatial constructions offer features for suspending and merging arms and hair into the garments, allowing body and garment to intertwine.
I took inspiration from traditional folkloristic garments from my birthplace Romania and the artisanal context they are produced in. This can be seen in the use of material, choice of technique, as well as the design of the garments.
This collection also may shows, that historic crafts or the common use of the material leather can still be explored in original and contemporary ways. Picking up on traditional approaches and combining loose ends in unusual ways created new solutions that go beyond previous references. / Photography: Mikkel Bo /
This collection was kindly sponsored by Bodin Joyeux (www.bodinjoyeux.com)
989 KNOTS REBOUND FOR DEUTSCHE BANK AWARDS EXHIBITION / LONDON, 2013 is a remade edition of the original ‘989 knots’ collection. The series of selected items is exclusively produced for the exhibition at the University of the Arts showroom in High Holborn, London. The group exhibition is showcasing the UAL graduates, who have won Deutsche Bank Awards for Creative Enterprises in fashion and photography over the past 12 years.
REBOUND focuses on the most essential pieces of the first collection and is at the same time exploring the idea of working from leftover material from previous collections. New plays on technique and colour compositions, using natural and yellow tinted wolfish skin, combined with other leather-types of various dyes, are demonstrating the potential of the Macramé accessories and grasp the timeless aesthetic of the technique. / Photography: Mads Emil Hilmer /
This collection was kindly sponsored by Atlantic Leathers (www.atlanticleather.is)
989 KNOTS is the first jewellery collection by Dagmar Kestner, based on the technique of Macramé in combination with leather. Variations on this traditional craft, such as increasing the number of bands, changing their regularity of width and inserting wads of clay to the centre, give the chains their slightly ‘distorted’ characteristic. Leather, as the main material used, allows raw edges, elasticity and the variety of surface aspects from front to back side, glossy to rough. The use of particular colours also gives strong connotations to other textures, such as ivory, liquorice or tentacles of squids. Each item is carefully crafted, every single leather band cut by hand and every knot hand-tied The final voluminously bold appearance and body stands in a fascinating contrast to the dozens of fine detailed knots they are built of. / Photography: Anders Hybel Bräuner